Sunday, July 19, 2015

London 2015 Days 1 and 2, June 30 to July 1

London 2015 Days 1 and 2, June 30 to July 1

It sure is a fun city still, and the weather is great if too hot yesterday. Today is cloudy and much better. Our hotel is right on top of the Charing Cross station, perfect location to walk almost everywhere, and also for the train to Kent which we will take next week.

First day we went to Trafalgar Square for our picnic lunch with Marks and Spencer sandwiches! Then to the National Gallery for an hour since it was right there. We had our afternoon tea in the little courtyard of St. Martins in the Fields, right across from our hotel. Needless to say we both fell asleep pretty early!

Day Two, we walked to the British Museum for the Elgin Marbles and for the Greek exhibit, which was a great collection of sculptures if a bit superficial in descriptions! This was the really hot day. We walked there but took a very slow and hot bus back. Then after a short rest we had a first cream tea in our hotel, which was just scones but lovely! Later we walked across the Embankment, which is just down from our hotel, to check out the Eye and figure out when to go on it. We will wait for a clear day!

London 2015, Day 3, July 2

London 2015, Day 3, July 2

This was a busy busy day with two Tates and six miles according to Ti's Fitbit. At first we thought of going early to the London Eye, but after walking down to the Embankment and seeing the clouds we decided to go to the Tate Britain first. But the bus did not come and after waiting around a bit, we took the tube, and managed to change lines and get to Pimlico. We followed some school kids down a few blocks to find the Tate.

WOW and double WOW, don't ever miss this museum, it is stupendous! And my favorite artist Turner has a whole wing to himself, a feast for mine eyes. Check out some photos on Facebook. We had a nice breakfast and then lunch in their lovely cafe.

Then we did manage to find the bus, no. 87, right in front of the Tate Britain, which left us in front of our hotel ! After a short rest we headed out to the other Tate, first by no. 15 bus, then across the Millennium Bridge, which had a lovely view of the Tower bridge and the Shard skyscraper.

The Tate Modern was huge and fun, but we only had time for ONE floor, as it closed at 6 and we needed some dinner before the Globe, which was right next door! I had my first fish and chips, and Ti had a healthy salad!

On to the Globe Shakespeare and a fun production of Measure for Measure. We had good bench seats and were pretty comfy sitting on our hotel pillows (don't tell them!) although after nearly three hours my back hurt a bit. At least we weren't standing like so many young ones.

Back across a very windy Millennium Bridge to Charing Cross, and so to sleep!

London 2015, Day 4, July 3

London 2015, Day 4, July 3

Today is the perfect day for the LONDON EYE, clear, sunny, and not too hot! We got there early even before the ticket windows opened to avoid the long lines. And a good thing too as it was mighty crowded when we got out. But it was super and our pod had only about ten people in it instead of the 25 that it holds, so we could move about freely and see every side! Took photos, photos, photos constantly, as did everyone else! Almost worth the outrageous charge.

Afterwards we took the tube from nearby Waterloo station and even found the change to the Picadilly line to St. Pancras for a visit to the BRITISH LIBRARY. Their manuscripts were fascinating even though the room was necessarily dark. The Magna Carta was in a special exhibition so we skipped it. After a nice salad lunch in their little cafe, we headed back via the no. 91 bus to Trafalgar.

Looking for dinner we wandered down St. Martins Lane and found a cute tiny Lebanese place, LA ROCHE. Food was excellent so we will come back.

Tonight we went to a wonderful concert of CARMINA BURANA at St. Martin in the Fields with a huge chorus including a small children's chorus as well. We had seats in the FIRST row right in front of the drums! It was loud but great, as though we were part of the small ensemble.

To top off the evening there was an HD screening of a live Royal Opera House Don Giovanni right in Trafalgar Square! So we watched the last half hour after our concert to see the Don meet his maker!

London 2015, Day 5, July 4 !

London 2015, Day 5, July 4

Happy Fourth to us! We both slept late today, but it is a holiday and we were out late last night!

After a very slow start we took the tube to South Kensington stop, changing successfully from the Northern line to the Picadilly line, then walking a mile through a long tunnel right to the VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM. What a fantastic place, a beautiful building with amazing collections, everything one could want, even a few Turners for me (see Facebook photos!). I particularly liked the ironwork gallery, although the cast galleries were fun, with a Column of Trajan chopped in half! We took a short tour of a few highlights, and then found dear Erica for lunch! That was fun and we sat in their wonderful garden courtyard and she took some really nice photos of us of course! Thank you Erica!

After an easy two bus ride to our hotel, nos. 74 and 9, for recharging, we walked two blocks to the SAVOY THEATER for the show GYPSY with Imelda Staunton. She was amazing and the show was terrific and funny as can be. Had great orchestra seats (or stalls as they are called here) but were three flights underground and a long hike back up afterwards. Nice to take a short seven minute walk back to our hotel!

London 2015 Day 6, July 5 Sunday

London 2015 Day 6, July 5 Sunday

Woke up far too early today and it rained a bit! Just a mist really. Since we were early we had our first English Breakfast here in the hotel terrace room. Very nice and filling, with sausages, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, toast and pastries, fruit and juice!

Then we took the 15 bus up the Strand (down the Strand? along the Strand?) to St. Paul's Cathedral for the 11am orchestral mass with Mozart's Coronation Mass sung by their boys and mens choir. Really really impressive sitting right near the front. The church is stunning, particularly the nave which is unadorned with the Victorian mosaics of the choir section. We didn't have a tour since no tours on Sundays when there were services. But the music was thrilling

After that we took the 15 bus back for a short visit to the Courtauld Gallery with many fine Impressionist paintings, and one of my favorite Manets, the Bar at the Folies-Bergere. A little lunch in their cafe and then off to the opera across the street!

The Royal Opera House in Covent a Garden is worth a trip to London by itself. Seats were really pricey but the view was close from our seats in the Stalls Circle as they call the first ring of seats. ThenOpera was Guillaume Tell or William Tell by Rossini but sung in French. Much press has been written over the last few days about a rape scene with several soldiers and a young girl. The production was toned down a bit from opening night and she is no longer left naked. But it was a small part of a four and a half hour long performance, with only two half hour intervals. It was overall a strangely moving production with several crowd scenes and a huge dead tree revolving around the stage. Singing was excellent, and this was an HD filmed show for theaters around the UK and maybe eventually the US!

Whew, after our marathon opera afternoon, from 3 to 7:30, we wandered through Covent Garden Market where most young ones were enjoying a pint or two! We found a little Italian restaurant for a yummy dinner, and then a short walk back to our hotel!

London 2015 Day 7, July 6 to Cambridge

London 2015 Day 7, July 6 to Cambridge

Awake early again, but we didn't leave until almost 9 and first got some breakfast goodies to eat on the train from our nearby little M&S shop. Took the tube via Northern line to Piccadilly line to Kings Cross Station. By the time we found the ticket office and waited on line, we got the 10:14 train direct to Cambridge in less than an hour, very fast train. Then we found the local bus into the center of town!

Cambridge is very very busy with huge groups of students and other tourists. It made the little streets very crowded. We found the Tourist Information Office for a map and guide book. Sadly I didn't ask when things were open so we missed a few things by just taking our time around the town. For example the Wren Library was only open from 12-2, and Christ College closed at 4 pm. Trinity was closed to visitors as was St. John's.

First visit was to the Kings College Chapel, a fantastic gothic work, with the most gorgeous vaulted fan ceiling, unbelievable. Too bad no concerts today. Lovely location and grounds also.

But we did find a lovely concert in Great St. Mary's Church across the street. It was a touring women's choir from Orange County California! They sang a nice variety of songs from early music to American country!

After that we needed lunch, so found the famed Eagle Pub for some fish and chips, only my second here! Then we decided to find the river Cam and see the punters. But we were right at the punting stop so decided to take a ride. The seats were not that comfortable but the ride was pleasant. Our punt man (punter?) was a handsome lad and very chatty even though we couldn't hear much from the other end of the boat.

We were rather tired by then so made our way back to the train by bus, and just made the 4:55 train to Kings Cross. This was a slow train but very relaxing at any rate.

London 2015 Day 8, July 7 Cotswolds tour

London 2015 Day 8, July 7 Cotswolds tour

Today we met our bus at the Citadines Hotel just around the corner from our hotel. But this coach took us to the Victoria Coach Station, from where we boarded another bus to continue on our tour of the Cotswolds region, stopping at four pretty villages, Burford, Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Stow-on-the-Wold. By the end of the day we were pretty confused about which was which. Our photos all look very similar, with small houses all built of the local yellow limestone, which looked grayish in the rain of the morning, but looked golden in the afternoon sunlight. There is a requirement now that anything newly built must be made of this local stone to keep a unified look.

We first went to Burford, a small town with one Main Street down the hill, and with shops lining each side of the road, and some hidden alleys with little houses. There was a fly fishing ship just for my brother but I didn't buy any flies! Here it was grey and misting for a little rain but we walked around anyhow.

Next we went back on the bus to Bibury, a tiny village with some historic weavers cottages. We walked around and made our way to the White Swan Hotel for lovely trout lunch. The village has a trout farm in the very clear waters. Lunch was fine and relaxing, then back to the bus to the next village.

Bourton-on-the-Water was as the name says right on a little brook running through it, with small stone bridges over the water. Very many tour buses here.

Lastly we stopped at Stow-on-the-Wold, a bigger town than the others, with a nice square, but full of parked cars. The market comes on Thursdays, but today is not Thursday! But here in this town is Huffkins Tea Shop, and boy were we ready for tea time as it was nearly 4pm by now!

A long bus ride back to London Victoria Coach Station and a short tube ride back to our hotel, changing from the District Line to the Northern Line formCharing Cross.

At the end of the day we feasted on a sandwich for dinner with champagne provided by the hotel!

London 2015 Day 9, July 8 to Sissinghurst

London 2015 Day 9 July 8 to Sissinghurst

Today we leave our lovely hotel for four days Kent in south east England. Before checking out I tried three bank machines before one gave me some pounds, the HSBC, so I shall remember that. We found breakfast in Coventry Garden Market at Le Pain Quotidian of all places, but I had a wonderful avocado on toast. Ti had Salmon and eggs. Both were delicious, so we may come back!

Back to our hotel to check out after eight days here. I won't mention the price, but it was dear. However we fully enjoyed the service and the great location, particularly the location right at a major tube stop and the Southeastern trains to Kent. We both checked our big suitcases at the hotel since we are returning here, and took only the small wheeled carryons with us. Much easier traveling!

After a pleasant hour long train ride we de-trained at Staplehurst, the nearest stop to Sissinghurst. Well, nothing at the train station, I mean nothing at all except a car park. So we walked a few blocks to a little news shop to find a bus or taxi since we had no phone to call one. The nice lady there called to find out, but a bus would come in 40 minutes and a taxi in over an hour. So we settled down to wait, but wonder of wonders the taxi lady came by in twenty minutes to take us over six miles to the farmhouse!

And it is really lovely here, a quaint place with simple rooms, a charming sitting room for tea, and of course the nice breakfast room with blue china! The main gardens built by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicholsen closed at 5 so we went for tea first and then a walk around the other gardens. After more tea and more cake (let us eat cake) I sat for awhile overlooking the grounds while Ti explored and took more photos!

Too tired for further walks so we enjoyed our pleasant room with its "wet room" actually a shower on the floor, like some I encountered in our first trip to Greece when we stayed in a humble village house!

London 2015 Day 10. July 9 Thursday at Sissinghurst

London 2015 Day 10. July 9 Thursday at Sissinghurst

Awake early today despite a lumpy pillow here! Ti went out walking and photographing early but I stayed in to catch up with news and Facebook. Our breakfast was delightful, totally English with cold porridge with fruit, eggs and sausages, yummy jams, and tea of course. We left for the gardens feeling very full indeed.

After waiting around for half an hour until the ticket window opened, we entered the castle gardens at 11, which were more than spectacular! These are the famous gardens created by Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson, and they are justly famous. The White Garden had such variety of white flowers that it looked magical. The other garden was a riot of color and sizes from tiny to tall, a very intense experience to be surrounded by so much glory. Brick pathways lined through the flower beds, and some were separated by tall hedges, so you couldn't even see many other people. I can't even describe the variety it was so extreme, and that impressed me the most. Photos just don't do it justice, but we each took hundreds anyhow. Good thing no one has to sit through our slide shows anymore!

After a few short five minute garden talks and a too long talk about Vita's life, we ate lunch in their little cafe. Back through the gardens for a few last views, and a climb up 78 spiral steps to the tower for a lovely view of the entire garden.

Finally back to our little room for a rest up before walking to the village for dinner at the Milk House pub. It was about a mile down the road from the farmhouse and then through the woods for the most part. We were misdirected by walkers in the woods who said to turn left, although we should have turned right! Eventually found the place and had tasty mussels and frites! A walk back through the woods was pleasant as it doesn't get dark here until after ten.

London 2015 Day 11 July 10 to Canterbury

London 2015 Day 11 July 10 to Canterbury

After one last delicious breakfast at our Farmhouse B&B, we took a taxi to Staplehurst train station for the train to Canterbury. Arrived there by one after a short taxi ride to our hotel. Our room wasn't ready as I forgot to request early checkin, so we took a stupid rowboat ride on the Stour river or rather stream as it was very narrow and shallow with low bridges to duck under. After checking into the hotel, Abode Canterbury, right on the main street we ventured over to the cathedral.

The Canterbury Cathedral is justly famous, like the Vatican for Anglicans. And it is beautiful and huge too. Wonderful stained glass windows, many restored after being damaged by Henry VIII and WW II. We took the audio tour and stayed so long that it was time for tea out on the Cathedral grounds, and then back for the Evensong with the boys and men's choir. Really lovely singing in a gorgeous location in the churches choir section. Awesome visit!

By the time it was over it was time for dinner. Seems as though all we do is eat! But walking back to our hotel we found a little place, Cafe Rouge, and sat down outside for some mussels and a well deserved glass of wine.

That's it for today folks!

London 2015 Day 12 July 11 Our Kent Tour

London 2015 Day 12 July 11 Our Kent Tour

Since we wanted to go to several places in the Kent countryside without a car, we had booked a private tour guide, Jane Martin's Tours of the Realm. She is based here although she gives tours for up to four people all over Great Britain including Scotland and Wales. She was lovely and it was a perfect day, sunny and warm with breezes nearly everywhere.

First stop was DOVER CASTLE built in the twelfth century by Henry II and improved over the years. Dover of course is closest to France, and England is always fearful of invaders. But although Hitler bombed much of Britain, he never hit Dover as he wanted the castle for himself, so they say! We climbed and climbed up to the top for a wide view of the town, including the cars and trucks loading and unloading the huge ferries to France, still used despite the Channel Tunnel.

After this wonderful visit we drove along the coast to the tiny village of St. Margaret's Bay and down, down, down to the bottom of the cliffs. Here is that magical view of the huge WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER!! They are simply beautiful, every bit the advertised wonder! We walked along the small bay here, took photos of course, the drove back, back, back up the cliff road to a hidden Tea House in a very windy spot atop the cliffs for a nice lunch.

Next stop was DEAL, a coastal holiday town with many nicely restored large houses facing the seaside road. We made a brief stop here to walk along the beach footpath (as sidewalks are called here!) and drive through some very narrow streets.

Then on to the former Cinque Port of SANDWICH. There is a village near the town called Ham, and its address is Ham Sandwich! Did they name it that on purpose? Which came first, Ham or Sandwich? There was a Holiday Fayre (as advertised!) taking place so the little market square was crowded with tables and festivities. We watched some of the Morris dancers with bells on their legs, doing a sort of jig. Other groups were scattered throughout the town waiting their turn or milling about after their performance. Sandwich is very well preserved as the estuary silted up over the years and it is now over two miles from the sea! There were river cruises of course, but we just walked through the old gate house and then found a nice quiet spot for tea and scones!

Back to Canterbury and goodbye to Jane after a full day! For dinner we found one of her recommendations, Deeson's British Food for some tasty Kent specialties. We had their cider and a cod dinner. Walked around Canterbury for a bit, and there were lots of strollers and bar sitters and loungers! Lively town for a Saturday night!

London 2015 Day 13 July 12 Back to London

London 2015 Day 13 July 12 Back to London

We ate a big English breakfast in our Canterbury Hotel, and then went out for a walk. Weather is cloudy but no rain. Found the Roman Museum, which chronicled Canterbury's history from the first Roman soldiers sent by Claudius in 43 CE. This museum had exhibits about daily life in Roman Britain. There were reconstructions of shoemaking, jewelry, hairdressing, etc. and some drawings of how the town was laid out.

After checking out of our very nice day convenient hotel, we walked to the station for the train to Charing Cross, changing again at Ashford. I had requested early checkin this time so we should arrive back in good time. In fact it was almost two hours from Canterbury to London, but nice smooth train. Arrived at the Amba Hotel and got nearly the same room but on the third floor which means fewer lift changes! Unpacking a real chore as we had left our large suitcases here!

London 2015 Day 14 July 13 to Highclere and Blenheim

London 2015 Day 14 July 13 to Highclere and Blenheim

After a hearty hotel breakfast our driver guide arrived promptly at 9 for our day out to Blenheim Palace, home of Winston Churchill and then to Highclere Castle or Downton Abbey as we call it.

Unfortunately it was the first rainy day after two weeks of sunny days, but no matter we will be mostly in the car or in the houses. It was a long drive, over an hour to BLENHEIM PALACE. And this was a magnificent place with grand rooms, paintings, statues, etc., etc. We toured through the state rooms and the fantastic long library room, fully the length of the building on one side. The plan is symmetrical with courtyards in the center and at the side. Much information about the Churchill family was displayed but we didn't have time to read most of it as we went on a tour of the private apartments, a separate wing with more understated rooms meant for family use.

Now it was time for lunch and we went to a small place in the country, the SWAN INN at Swinbrook for a delicious fish meal and Pimms of course! This was the place where Sybil eloped with Tom in Downton series 2!

Finally the crowning moment of our two weeks here, DOWNTON ABBEY, about an hours drive from Blenheim. I meant Highclere of course! It looked EXACTLY like the show of course so we were not disappointed. No photos allowed so I bought the guide book which explained about the history of the family and the house. The rooms are wonderful just like on TV! Although they seemed smaller as the camera angles make them look bigger. Now we know. The library looked just like that room, and the dining room too looked smaller! Lady Mary's bedroom is in the studio, not here, but Sybil's room was open, and the red room where Mary had her disastrous affair was open. After a leisurely walk through the open rooms, with very few other visitors as it was the end of the day, we found tea in a little basement tea room since it was still rather damp outside. But there were tables set up and it would have been very nice on a sunny day!

London 2015 Day 15 July 14 a free day!

London 2015 Day 15 July 14 a free day

Today I went back to my best places, first to Pain Quotidien for avocado toast (I sure hope they have this in NYC!), then to the BM, and to Handel House!

At the BRITISH MUSEUM I went only to the Greek section, having no time during my last visit. They have a great display showing thousands of years from the Cycladic figurines down to the Parthenon, with vases, small sculpture and large, all in betweenthe early years and the later down to Hellenistic times.

Then I took a bus down Oxford Street to the HANDEL HOUSE Museum. Quite a contrast to the BM. Here is a very modest three story brick house, with only two or three rooms on each floor. Furnishings were scarce as in Handel's day, but there were many paintings on the walls. One room had music displayed with headphones to listen along. Another room was devoted to his friends and their place in his life, taken from a recent book that I had just read by Ruth Smith.

After this I tried a bus back to Trafalgar to meet Ti who had skipped the BM and had taken a bus ride, but I ended up walking half way as there was so much traffic. We met at the National Portrait Gallery for lunch (very expensive roof restaurant with a nice view) and looked through the museum after lunch. Wandering through the Portrait Gallery was disconcerting as there were just so many, most were Britons, but not all. A few interested me, but this was not my favorite place.

Not being ready for a nap we decided to brave Harrods! The 91 bus goes directly there from Trafalgar and it brought us back too. What a place! The rooms really outshine their products in my opinion. The food courts are the best with different themed decor for different products, from sweets to fruits and veggies to pastries, etc. we liked the pastries best and bought some for our breakfast!

That store tired us out so we found a terrace restaurant for tea and a snack, but no scone though for me today!

London 2015 Day 16 July 15 leaving London

London 2015 Day 16 July 15 Leaving London

After ordering a car to the airport from our hotel, only 70 pounds not the 90 we paid coming in, we turned in our Oyster cards and got a refund of a lot of coins to spend! I headed to the NATIONAL GALLERY for one last visit to balance out our visit there on our first day in London. Ti went down to see the Horse Guards, but we only had about two hours so I wanted to see what I missed last time. I got an audio guide, which made the paintings much more enjoyable. This time I went through the early years from the 13th to the 15th centuries and saw some amazing works. Ducccio, Botticelli, Mantegna, Veronese, Memling, etc., etc., it was a well spent two hours.

Then I met Ti for our last lunch in St. Martins, but this time in the crypt not in the outdoor terrace as it had rained and it was rather damp out. It is pleasant down below however and we had excellent salads! The salads here are superior to all other meals we decided, as they are always fresh with great variety.

Back to our hotel across the street to gather our bags and check out. We paid up before going back to the room and the key card didn't work again. Second time this happened to us despite my asking the clerk to make sure we could enter the room. Our ride to the airport was swift and comfy in a new Mercedes! But we got there with three hours to spare although Ti had her bag searched as she forgot a spray bottle in it! We looked around in duty free and I bought some cherry jam with my last coins. Then we still had hours to kill so we went to the Waggamama (?) restaurant for tea and a snack, our favorite thing here!

British Aiways 189 left on time, it was full up, and Michael met me in Newark, and we had a fast ride home by 9pm although really 2am for me! END OF A WONDERFUL TWO WEEKS -- THANK YOU TI FOR SHARING !!