London 2015 Day 9 July 8 to Sissinghurst
Today we leave our lovely hotel for four days Kent in south east England. Before checking out I tried three bank machines before one gave me some pounds, the HSBC, so I shall remember that. We found breakfast in Coventry Garden Market at Le Pain Quotidian of all places, but I had a wonderful avocado on toast. Ti had Salmon and eggs. Both were delicious, so we may come back!
Back to our hotel to check out after eight days here. I won't mention the price, but it was dear. However we fully enjoyed the service and the great location, particularly the location right at a major tube stop and the Southeastern trains to Kent. We both checked our big suitcases at the hotel since we are returning here, and took only the small wheeled carryons with us. Much easier traveling!
After a pleasant hour long train ride we de-trained at Staplehurst, the nearest stop to Sissinghurst. Well, nothing at the train station, I mean nothing at all except a car park. So we walked a few blocks to a little news shop to find a bus or taxi since we had no phone to call one. The nice lady there called to find out, but a bus would come in 40 minutes and a taxi in over an hour. So we settled down to wait, but wonder of wonders the taxi lady came by in twenty minutes to take us over six miles to the farmhouse!
And it is really lovely here, a quaint place with simple rooms, a charming sitting room for tea, and of course the nice breakfast room with blue china! The main gardens built by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicholsen closed at 5 so we went for tea first and then a walk around the other gardens. After more tea and more cake (let us eat cake) I sat for awhile overlooking the grounds while Ti explored and took more photos!
Too tired for further walks so we enjoyed our pleasant room with its "wet room" actually a shower on the floor, like some I encountered in our first trip to Greece when we stayed in a humble village house!
Sunday, July 19, 2015
London 2015 Day 10. July 9 Thursday at Sissinghurst
London 2015 Day 10. July 9 Thursday at Sissinghurst
Awake early today despite a lumpy pillow here! Ti went out walking and photographing early but I stayed in to catch up with news and Facebook. Our breakfast was delightful, totally English with cold porridge with fruit, eggs and sausages, yummy jams, and tea of course. We left for the gardens feeling very full indeed.
After waiting around for half an hour until the ticket window opened, we entered the castle gardens at 11, which were more than spectacular! These are the famous gardens created by Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson, and they are justly famous. The White Garden had such variety of white flowers that it looked magical. The other garden was a riot of color and sizes from tiny to tall, a very intense experience to be surrounded by so much glory. Brick pathways lined through the flower beds, and some were separated by tall hedges, so you couldn't even see many other people. I can't even describe the variety it was so extreme, and that impressed me the most. Photos just don't do it justice, but we each took hundreds anyhow. Good thing no one has to sit through our slide shows anymore!
After a few short five minute garden talks and a too long talk about Vita's life, we ate lunch in their little cafe. Back through the gardens for a few last views, and a climb up 78 spiral steps to the tower for a lovely view of the entire garden.
Finally back to our little room for a rest up before walking to the village for dinner at the Milk House pub. It was about a mile down the road from the farmhouse and then through the woods for the most part. We were misdirected by walkers in the woods who said to turn left, although we should have turned right! Eventually found the place and had tasty mussels and frites! A walk back through the woods was pleasant as it doesn't get dark here until after ten.
Awake early today despite a lumpy pillow here! Ti went out walking and photographing early but I stayed in to catch up with news and Facebook. Our breakfast was delightful, totally English with cold porridge with fruit, eggs and sausages, yummy jams, and tea of course. We left for the gardens feeling very full indeed.
After waiting around for half an hour until the ticket window opened, we entered the castle gardens at 11, which were more than spectacular! These are the famous gardens created by Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson, and they are justly famous. The White Garden had such variety of white flowers that it looked magical. The other garden was a riot of color and sizes from tiny to tall, a very intense experience to be surrounded by so much glory. Brick pathways lined through the flower beds, and some were separated by tall hedges, so you couldn't even see many other people. I can't even describe the variety it was so extreme, and that impressed me the most. Photos just don't do it justice, but we each took hundreds anyhow. Good thing no one has to sit through our slide shows anymore!
After a few short five minute garden talks and a too long talk about Vita's life, we ate lunch in their little cafe. Back through the gardens for a few last views, and a climb up 78 spiral steps to the tower for a lovely view of the entire garden.
Finally back to our little room for a rest up before walking to the village for dinner at the Milk House pub. It was about a mile down the road from the farmhouse and then through the woods for the most part. We were misdirected by walkers in the woods who said to turn left, although we should have turned right! Eventually found the place and had tasty mussels and frites! A walk back through the woods was pleasant as it doesn't get dark here until after ten.
London 2015 Day 11 July 10 to Canterbury
London 2015 Day 11 July 10 to Canterbury
After one last delicious breakfast at our Farmhouse B&B, we took a taxi to Staplehurst train station for the train to Canterbury. Arrived there by one after a short taxi ride to our hotel. Our room wasn't ready as I forgot to request early checkin, so we took a stupid rowboat ride on the Stour river or rather stream as it was very narrow and shallow with low bridges to duck under. After checking into the hotel, Abode Canterbury, right on the main street we ventured over to the cathedral.
The Canterbury Cathedral is justly famous, like the Vatican for Anglicans. And it is beautiful and huge too. Wonderful stained glass windows, many restored after being damaged by Henry VIII and WW II. We took the audio tour and stayed so long that it was time for tea out on the Cathedral grounds, and then back for the Evensong with the boys and men's choir. Really lovely singing in a gorgeous location in the churches choir section. Awesome visit!
By the time it was over it was time for dinner. Seems as though all we do is eat! But walking back to our hotel we found a little place, Cafe Rouge, and sat down outside for some mussels and a well deserved glass of wine.
That's it for today folks!
After one last delicious breakfast at our Farmhouse B&B, we took a taxi to Staplehurst train station for the train to Canterbury. Arrived there by one after a short taxi ride to our hotel. Our room wasn't ready as I forgot to request early checkin, so we took a stupid rowboat ride on the Stour river or rather stream as it was very narrow and shallow with low bridges to duck under. After checking into the hotel, Abode Canterbury, right on the main street we ventured over to the cathedral.
The Canterbury Cathedral is justly famous, like the Vatican for Anglicans. And it is beautiful and huge too. Wonderful stained glass windows, many restored after being damaged by Henry VIII and WW II. We took the audio tour and stayed so long that it was time for tea out on the Cathedral grounds, and then back for the Evensong with the boys and men's choir. Really lovely singing in a gorgeous location in the churches choir section. Awesome visit!
By the time it was over it was time for dinner. Seems as though all we do is eat! But walking back to our hotel we found a little place, Cafe Rouge, and sat down outside for some mussels and a well deserved glass of wine.
That's it for today folks!
London 2015 Day 12 July 11 Our Kent Tour
London 2015 Day 12 July 11 Our Kent Tour
Since we wanted to go to several places in the Kent countryside without a car, we had booked a private tour guide, Jane Martin's Tours of the Realm. She is based here although she gives tours for up to four people all over Great Britain including Scotland and Wales. She was lovely and it was a perfect day, sunny and warm with breezes nearly everywhere.
First stop was DOVER CASTLE built in the twelfth century by Henry II and improved over the years. Dover of course is closest to France, and England is always fearful of invaders. But although Hitler bombed much of Britain, he never hit Dover as he wanted the castle for himself, so they say! We climbed and climbed up to the top for a wide view of the town, including the cars and trucks loading and unloading the huge ferries to France, still used despite the Channel Tunnel.
After this wonderful visit we drove along the coast to the tiny village of St. Margaret's Bay and down, down, down to the bottom of the cliffs. Here is that magical view of the huge WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER!! They are simply beautiful, every bit the advertised wonder! We walked along the small bay here, took photos of course, the drove back, back, back up the cliff road to a hidden Tea House in a very windy spot atop the cliffs for a nice lunch.
Next stop was DEAL, a coastal holiday town with many nicely restored large houses facing the seaside road. We made a brief stop here to walk along the beach footpath (as sidewalks are called here!) and drive through some very narrow streets.
Then on to the former Cinque Port of SANDWICH. There is a village near the town called Ham, and its address is Ham Sandwich! Did they name it that on purpose? Which came first, Ham or Sandwich? There was a Holiday Fayre (as advertised!) taking place so the little market square was crowded with tables and festivities. We watched some of the Morris dancers with bells on their legs, doing a sort of jig. Other groups were scattered throughout the town waiting their turn or milling about after their performance. Sandwich is very well preserved as the estuary silted up over the years and it is now over two miles from the sea! There were river cruises of course, but we just walked through the old gate house and then found a nice quiet spot for tea and scones!
Back to Canterbury and goodbye to Jane after a full day! For dinner we found one of her recommendations, Deeson's British Food for some tasty Kent specialties. We had their cider and a cod dinner. Walked around Canterbury for a bit, and there were lots of strollers and bar sitters and loungers! Lively town for a Saturday night!
Since we wanted to go to several places in the Kent countryside without a car, we had booked a private tour guide, Jane Martin's Tours of the Realm. She is based here although she gives tours for up to four people all over Great Britain including Scotland and Wales. She was lovely and it was a perfect day, sunny and warm with breezes nearly everywhere.
First stop was DOVER CASTLE built in the twelfth century by Henry II and improved over the years. Dover of course is closest to France, and England is always fearful of invaders. But although Hitler bombed much of Britain, he never hit Dover as he wanted the castle for himself, so they say! We climbed and climbed up to the top for a wide view of the town, including the cars and trucks loading and unloading the huge ferries to France, still used despite the Channel Tunnel.
After this wonderful visit we drove along the coast to the tiny village of St. Margaret's Bay and down, down, down to the bottom of the cliffs. Here is that magical view of the huge WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER!! They are simply beautiful, every bit the advertised wonder! We walked along the small bay here, took photos of course, the drove back, back, back up the cliff road to a hidden Tea House in a very windy spot atop the cliffs for a nice lunch.
Next stop was DEAL, a coastal holiday town with many nicely restored large houses facing the seaside road. We made a brief stop here to walk along the beach footpath (as sidewalks are called here!) and drive through some very narrow streets.
Then on to the former Cinque Port of SANDWICH. There is a village near the town called Ham, and its address is Ham Sandwich! Did they name it that on purpose? Which came first, Ham or Sandwich? There was a Holiday Fayre (as advertised!) taking place so the little market square was crowded with tables and festivities. We watched some of the Morris dancers with bells on their legs, doing a sort of jig. Other groups were scattered throughout the town waiting their turn or milling about after their performance. Sandwich is very well preserved as the estuary silted up over the years and it is now over two miles from the sea! There were river cruises of course, but we just walked through the old gate house and then found a nice quiet spot for tea and scones!
Back to Canterbury and goodbye to Jane after a full day! For dinner we found one of her recommendations, Deeson's British Food for some tasty Kent specialties. We had their cider and a cod dinner. Walked around Canterbury for a bit, and there were lots of strollers and bar sitters and loungers! Lively town for a Saturday night!
London 2015 Day 13 July 12 Back to London
London 2015 Day 13 July 12 Back to London
We ate a big English breakfast in our Canterbury Hotel, and then went out for a walk. Weather is cloudy but no rain. Found the Roman Museum, which chronicled Canterbury's history from the first Roman soldiers sent by Claudius in 43 CE. This museum had exhibits about daily life in Roman Britain. There were reconstructions of shoemaking, jewelry, hairdressing, etc. and some drawings of how the town was laid out.
After checking out of our very nice day convenient hotel, we walked to the station for the train to Charing Cross, changing again at Ashford. I had requested early checkin this time so we should arrive back in good time. In fact it was almost two hours from Canterbury to London, but nice smooth train. Arrived at the Amba Hotel and got nearly the same room but on the third floor which means fewer lift changes! Unpacking a real chore as we had left our large suitcases here!
We ate a big English breakfast in our Canterbury Hotel, and then went out for a walk. Weather is cloudy but no rain. Found the Roman Museum, which chronicled Canterbury's history from the first Roman soldiers sent by Claudius in 43 CE. This museum had exhibits about daily life in Roman Britain. There were reconstructions of shoemaking, jewelry, hairdressing, etc. and some drawings of how the town was laid out.
After checking out of our very nice day convenient hotel, we walked to the station for the train to Charing Cross, changing again at Ashford. I had requested early checkin this time so we should arrive back in good time. In fact it was almost two hours from Canterbury to London, but nice smooth train. Arrived at the Amba Hotel and got nearly the same room but on the third floor which means fewer lift changes! Unpacking a real chore as we had left our large suitcases here!
London 2015 Day 14 July 13 to Highclere and Blenheim
London 2015 Day 14 July 13 to Highclere and Blenheim
After a hearty hotel breakfast our driver guide arrived promptly at 9 for our day out to Blenheim Palace, home of Winston Churchill and then to Highclere Castle or Downton Abbey as we call it.
Unfortunately it was the first rainy day after two weeks of sunny days, but no matter we will be mostly in the car or in the houses. It was a long drive, over an hour to BLENHEIM PALACE. And this was a magnificent place with grand rooms, paintings, statues, etc., etc. We toured through the state rooms and the fantastic long library room, fully the length of the building on one side. The plan is symmetrical with courtyards in the center and at the side. Much information about the Churchill family was displayed but we didn't have time to read most of it as we went on a tour of the private apartments, a separate wing with more understated rooms meant for family use.
Now it was time for lunch and we went to a small place in the country, the SWAN INN at Swinbrook for a delicious fish meal and Pimms of course! This was the place where Sybil eloped with Tom in Downton series 2!
Finally the crowning moment of our two weeks here, DOWNTON ABBEY, about an hours drive from Blenheim. I meant Highclere of course! It looked EXACTLY like the show of course so we were not disappointed. No photos allowed so I bought the guide book which explained about the history of the family and the house. The rooms are wonderful just like on TV! Although they seemed smaller as the camera angles make them look bigger. Now we know. The library looked just like that room, and the dining room too looked smaller! Lady Mary's bedroom is in the studio, not here, but Sybil's room was open, and the red room where Mary had her disastrous affair was open. After a leisurely walk through the open rooms, with very few other visitors as it was the end of the day, we found tea in a little basement tea room since it was still rather damp outside. But there were tables set up and it would have been very nice on a sunny day!
After a hearty hotel breakfast our driver guide arrived promptly at 9 for our day out to Blenheim Palace, home of Winston Churchill and then to Highclere Castle or Downton Abbey as we call it.
Unfortunately it was the first rainy day after two weeks of sunny days, but no matter we will be mostly in the car or in the houses. It was a long drive, over an hour to BLENHEIM PALACE. And this was a magnificent place with grand rooms, paintings, statues, etc., etc. We toured through the state rooms and the fantastic long library room, fully the length of the building on one side. The plan is symmetrical with courtyards in the center and at the side. Much information about the Churchill family was displayed but we didn't have time to read most of it as we went on a tour of the private apartments, a separate wing with more understated rooms meant for family use.
Now it was time for lunch and we went to a small place in the country, the SWAN INN at Swinbrook for a delicious fish meal and Pimms of course! This was the place where Sybil eloped with Tom in Downton series 2!
Finally the crowning moment of our two weeks here, DOWNTON ABBEY, about an hours drive from Blenheim. I meant Highclere of course! It looked EXACTLY like the show of course so we were not disappointed. No photos allowed so I bought the guide book which explained about the history of the family and the house. The rooms are wonderful just like on TV! Although they seemed smaller as the camera angles make them look bigger. Now we know. The library looked just like that room, and the dining room too looked smaller! Lady Mary's bedroom is in the studio, not here, but Sybil's room was open, and the red room where Mary had her disastrous affair was open. After a leisurely walk through the open rooms, with very few other visitors as it was the end of the day, we found tea in a little basement tea room since it was still rather damp outside. But there were tables set up and it would have been very nice on a sunny day!
London 2015 Day 15 July 14 a free day!
London 2015 Day 15 July 14 a free day
Today I went back to my best places, first to Pain Quotidien for avocado toast (I sure hope they have this in NYC!), then to the BM, and to Handel House!
At the BRITISH MUSEUM I went only to the Greek section, having no time during my last visit. They have a great display showing thousands of years from the Cycladic figurines down to the Parthenon, with vases, small sculpture and large, all in betweenthe early years and the later down to Hellenistic times.
Then I took a bus down Oxford Street to the HANDEL HOUSE Museum. Quite a contrast to the BM. Here is a very modest three story brick house, with only two or three rooms on each floor. Furnishings were scarce as in Handel's day, but there were many paintings on the walls. One room had music displayed with headphones to listen along. Another room was devoted to his friends and their place in his life, taken from a recent book that I had just read by Ruth Smith.
After this I tried a bus back to Trafalgar to meet Ti who had skipped the BM and had taken a bus ride, but I ended up walking half way as there was so much traffic. We met at the National Portrait Gallery for lunch (very expensive roof restaurant with a nice view) and looked through the museum after lunch. Wandering through the Portrait Gallery was disconcerting as there were just so many, most were Britons, but not all. A few interested me, but this was not my favorite place.
Not being ready for a nap we decided to brave Harrods! The 91 bus goes directly there from Trafalgar and it brought us back too. What a place! The rooms really outshine their products in my opinion. The food courts are the best with different themed decor for different products, from sweets to fruits and veggies to pastries, etc. we liked the pastries best and bought some for our breakfast!
That store tired us out so we found a terrace restaurant for tea and a snack, but no scone though for me today!
Today I went back to my best places, first to Pain Quotidien for avocado toast (I sure hope they have this in NYC!), then to the BM, and to Handel House!
At the BRITISH MUSEUM I went only to the Greek section, having no time during my last visit. They have a great display showing thousands of years from the Cycladic figurines down to the Parthenon, with vases, small sculpture and large, all in betweenthe early years and the later down to Hellenistic times.
Then I took a bus down Oxford Street to the HANDEL HOUSE Museum. Quite a contrast to the BM. Here is a very modest three story brick house, with only two or three rooms on each floor. Furnishings were scarce as in Handel's day, but there were many paintings on the walls. One room had music displayed with headphones to listen along. Another room was devoted to his friends and their place in his life, taken from a recent book that I had just read by Ruth Smith.
After this I tried a bus back to Trafalgar to meet Ti who had skipped the BM and had taken a bus ride, but I ended up walking half way as there was so much traffic. We met at the National Portrait Gallery for lunch (very expensive roof restaurant with a nice view) and looked through the museum after lunch. Wandering through the Portrait Gallery was disconcerting as there were just so many, most were Britons, but not all. A few interested me, but this was not my favorite place.
Not being ready for a nap we decided to brave Harrods! The 91 bus goes directly there from Trafalgar and it brought us back too. What a place! The rooms really outshine their products in my opinion. The food courts are the best with different themed decor for different products, from sweets to fruits and veggies to pastries, etc. we liked the pastries best and bought some for our breakfast!
That store tired us out so we found a terrace restaurant for tea and a snack, but no scone though for me today!
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